relations are located here:
Part 1 - The town and the master Zhiyi
Part 2 - High Temple of Light and rocky valley
Part 3 - Taoist Palace Tongbai and immortality seekers
Part 4 - Poetry Cold Mountains
DAY 6: Today
provisions of the morning, despite strong incentives pospalismy to resist - even alarm clock did little in a cell. Ok. 10:00 zwleklismy out of bed, without hurry obalilismy coffee, a good start we had a parcel "Katarzynek" and we went to the restaurant. The Tiantai in restaurants (at least those we visited), there are no cards dan, vegetables, fish, meat lying on the shelves, shows up as one would like to eat and says, as is to be prepared, and the chef cooks ordered as a meal. There is similar, it is difficult for niemiejscowych, because chef cooks on your way and the final result is his own interpretation rather than what the customer really wanted. In any case, order takes time, especially for us, who in away do not eat meat. In the end we were given ordered dish, including noodles - in huge bowls. In the eyes of the Lesser M appeared in terror, because usually we require that all ate, but today was one such bowl over of power, even for me - a great lover of pasta.
After breakfast we went to the bus - output from the hotel was like entering a different, otherworldly world. Fine rain was falling, it was warm, the whole surroundings, the mountains, stream, hotel - drowning in the clouds and mists. For the air was literally filled with aroma kamforowcow are changing. We like the rain, especially such a small spring cabbage soup, which fell today - and that turned the whole world beyond recognition. We were walking to the bus near the temple of the Clean Your 国清寺, a thousand-year-old bridge leading to it, the avenue after which both sides are growing a huge kamforowce numbering up to 1,000 years old, next to the fog loomed a high figure in 1500-year-old pagoda 隋 塔, wraznie was quite different, than in previous days, although it regretted that the day we started so late. Because we had a little time, we decided to go for Gore Red Fortress 赤城 山, located not far from us. City bus drove us into the same gate, after pyskowce and unsuccessful attempt to give the paw bought tickets and went to an alley, which climbed more gradually on the gore.
Photo: Stairs leading to the Gore Red Fortress
Part 1 - The town and the master Zhiyi
Part 2 - High Temple of Light and rocky valley
Part 3 - Taoist Palace Tongbai and immortality seekers
Part 4 - Poetry Cold Mountains
DAY 6: Today
provisions of the morning, despite strong incentives pospalismy to resist - even alarm clock did little in a cell. Ok. 10:00 zwleklismy out of bed, without hurry obalilismy coffee, a good start we had a parcel "Katarzynek" and we went to the restaurant. The Tiantai in restaurants (at least those we visited), there are no cards dan, vegetables, fish, meat lying on the shelves, shows up as one would like to eat and says, as is to be prepared, and the chef cooks ordered as a meal. There is similar, it is difficult for niemiejscowych, because chef cooks on your way and the final result is his own interpretation rather than what the customer really wanted. In any case, order takes time, especially for us, who in away do not eat meat. In the end we were given ordered dish, including noodles - in huge bowls. In the eyes of the Lesser M appeared in terror, because usually we require that all ate, but today was one such bowl over of power, even for me - a great lover of pasta.
After breakfast we went to the bus - output from the hotel was like entering a different, otherworldly world. Fine rain was falling, it was warm, the whole surroundings, the mountains, stream, hotel - drowning in the clouds and mists. For the air was literally filled with aroma kamforowcow are changing. We like the rain, especially such a small spring cabbage soup, which fell today - and that turned the whole world beyond recognition. We were walking to the bus near the temple of the Clean Your 国清寺, a thousand-year-old bridge leading to it, the avenue after which both sides are growing a huge kamforowce numbering up to 1,000 years old, next to the fog loomed a high figure in 1500-year-old pagoda 隋 塔, wraznie was quite different, than in previous days, although it regretted that the day we started so late. Because we had a little time, we decided to go for Gore Red Fortress 赤城 山, located not far from us. City bus drove us into the same gate, after pyskowce and unsuccessful attempt to give the paw bought tickets and went to an alley, which climbed more gradually on the gore.
Photo: Stairs leading to the Gore Red Fortress
Gora has a height of only 338m, but says Chinese saying "Gora is famous by the immortal for the living, not the height of" 山 不在 高 有 仙 则 名. Swa name comes from the fact that its shape resembles frogs of the defensive wall, the scale, which I have created a dark-red color, especially apparent in light of the rising sun. "Red Mountain in the Light of Dawn" is one of eight famous views of the mountain Tiantai. We did not see him not only because we arrived early afternoon at the gore, but also because the whole place drowning in the fog. At the top there are 18 caves, most of them around the temples were built, both Buddhist and Taoist. Gora was for centuries a favorite place to escape from the contemplation of the world and many famous monks.
Photo: Purple Cloud Cave sank in the mist:
first cave, to which we arrived, the Purple Cloud Cave 紫云 洞. Unfortunately, around the temple it was subjected to renovation, the noise of hammers, grinder and excavator working alongside meant that soon we left the place.
Photo: The interior of the cave with the altar of the golden statue of Buddha
cave itself is quite substantial, has a depth of 30m and 10m high, where there is a 2-storey temple complex, located in the central room is the altar - a larger front, while the smaller one - on the back. On the less appear A thousand-hand figure of the Goddess of Mercy.
Photo: Table staying at the temple commemorating the fallen emperor Jianwena:
At the entrance to the cave wall based on a permanent stone plaque commemorating the emperor Jianwena 建 文帝. Grandson of Zhu Yuanzhanga 朱元璋, the founder of Ming Dynasty 明, and his successor, was overthrown by Jianwen Zhu Di's uncle 朱棣 - later Emperor Yongle 永乐, the most famous of the transfer of the capital to Beijing and the construction of a huge palace complex where the Forbidden City. Arrived in August, with overseas trips admiral Zheng He, or are a famous Taoist missions seeker immortal Zhang Sanfeng 张三丰 really had to find Jianwena. Until today
t is not what really happened with nime, or killed, or are hid. Jianwen reportedly fled before the offensive uncle shaved his head and became a Buddhist monk. You would then also visited twice Caves Purple Cloud, but once there, he spent the Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) - which was commemorated by a stone plaque. The cave also preached sermons of famous monks Variations Tiantai - Guanding 灌顶 and Chuandeng 传灯.
Photo: Courtyard before the cave
the right of the main cave was situated less, called the lying Buddha cliff 卧佛 岩, with 3-foot wooden and gold-plated statue of Buddha lying (which is quite a way to present a rare Buddha usually it is in the sitting position). Apparently, he meditated in a cave that famous monk Tanyou 昙 猷. Legend says that one day while reciting sutras Tan youâ surrounded the dozen or so hungry tigers, but he further prayed not paying any attention. The Tigers were circulating around him, and finally a lay and slept. Tanyou He stopped chanting and then it hit a sleeping tiger in the head gently asking, why not listen to the words of the Buddha. The Tigers eventually went away by not doing harm to the monk.
Photo: censer, and a candlestick before the cliff lying Buddha
As mentioned noise przeploszyl us, so we went further up, and we have come to the Temple Jigonga 济 公 院.
Photo: Gate leading to Temple Jigonga:
Jigong 济 公 - extremely well-known and colorful figure of Chinese Buddhism - lived in the 13th century AD From childhood he had contact with Buddhist monks and priests taoistycznymi, and after the death of their parents left the house by becoming a monk. But liked the movement, he could not sit in static meditation, his behavior aroused much controversy - edible garlic (which monks do not consume - like other spices), meat dog, visited pubs and houses of entertainment bodily harm. His Buddhist master, however, saw in him the good souls, and guard, saying, "Buddhism is so great that it can tolerate in their ranks one crazy monk." Jigong assist the poor, was becoming the side of the oppressed, and after his death he was considered a living Buddha 活佛.
Photo: Cave of white cloud in the Temple Jigonga - a hundred sculptures of Saint refers to the various anecdotes from his extraordinary life
Jigong came from Tiantai, and here there is a property of a temple on top is a place for pilgrimage Buddhists from around the world. The main building of the temple is a huge gilded statue of Jigonga in the characteristic cap, behind him in the cave, there are 100 statues in various poses, illustrating with anecdotes of his life. Around the entire cave temple complex there, with the towers and pavilions. Mala M curiously watched Jigongowi grzebiacemu stick in your ear or ujarzmiajacemu dragon.
Photo: This sculpture was most fascinated Jigonga Mala M:
Large M, in turn, she found a gazebo built on the floor, and there is peace, surrounded by mist contemplated temple. I, in turn, of course I bought a small book telling the Jigongu and his place of worship.
Photo: Sinking in the thicket of bushes and mist Output gate of the Temple Jigonga
Then slowly we left temple and we found - unfortunately closed - the gate to another cave. We went further and, therefore, would appear to us the purple gate, as if glued to the vertical cliff. Knew that certainly was not a Buddhist temple, because they are always surrounded by yellow walls. The inscription above the gate removed any doubt - it was a glorious "Sixth Heavenly Cave" 第六 洞天. In Taoism believes that there are special places on earth conducive alchemical practices, the most important is the 10 ktorycch Heaven's Great tip 十大 洞天. Of the 10 patrons of the nine male deity, and one - just the sixth - feminine.
Photo: Taoist paradise - at the gates of the Celestial Caves
This deity is Huacun Wei 魏 华 存. Wei is a historical figure, lived in the period (252-334), since childhood been interested in Taoism and engaged meditation excercises. At age 24, at the request of his mother married and gave birth to two sons. When the sons podrosli, Wei Huacun went to the hermitage, and devoted himself entirely alchemical exercises. Their result was the text of the "Book of Supreme Purity" 上清 经, whose name shall be determined in an important school of Taoism originated by Wei Huacun - School of Supreme Purity (Shang Qing Pai 上清 派). Another School is an important classic "The Book of yellow Manor" 黄庭 经. Her study, recommend get rid of desire, strengthen essence of life and concentrations, additional exercises include massage, proper diet and reciting a special spell.
Photo: Courtyard before the Heavenly Cave
We went to the temple courtyard, ujadajacy dog \u200b\u200bgreeted us, wyrywajacy on the chain. M a little frightened, I shouted to the man and girl standing there, lest it calmed down. After a while we entered the cave - temple - and caught our attention guzheng 古筝, classical Chinese stringed instrument, the type of harp. We have plans to send a small M in learning to play the instrument, Mala M also in August to the piles, and the same instrument it is very like it. I asked the girl, who is on the game, replied - with a distinctive northern accent - that she, asked if he could play for us, and she said that they just have to embrace, because I just washed her hair. Imagine our surprise when after a while came out in distinctive clothing and uczesaniu Taoist nuns.
Photo: Taoistka and guzheng 古筝 - an instrument whose sound recalls the voice of the wind playing on a line kite soaring
monk seal - named Liu - was fascinated by Mala M, the whole time we talked, some puffs away, the whole time pytlowala something, smiling non-stop. After a while we played it two melodies, perhaps too neatly - as she admitted, teach the game until a few months, but the music in the Taoist holy place, in this awesome weather, especially sounded. Taoist monks should not ask about age, but do not worry about this taboo I asked Liu how old he was. When she said, dumb. He claimed to be 51, although both the Large M we gave her no more than 20 more. We started the conversation, Liu said, comes from the north-eastern China. I asked then, whether he knew the late Master Cao - from whom he studied in Beijing and who also came from those regions. Liu looked at me searchingly and said that he was one of the two Taoist masters. Turns out, therefore, that we were students of the same master ... Conversation was at once quickly and freely - Liu told us that comes from a family of teachers, was a nun at the age of just a few years, and untiring in this state all the time despite the opposition of the family. Her meditation teacher is Master Cao (same name), who was a nun on the Great White Mountain 太白 山 (which won a NB half a year ago), meditated for many years at Holy Western Huashan 华山 Gora, now lives in a hermitage in the wild mountains, several hours walk from the nearest homes, along with a student, who takes care of her daily needs. Master Cao has over 80 years, 28 years, nothing quite does not eat, drink only water. Taoist monks
school full perfection 全 真 (which connects the three principles of religious and social systems of China - Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism) have to obey similar rules, as Buddhist monks, and so are not allowed to eat meat and use spices (such as peppers and garlic). With the advancement in the practice of meditation gradually will restrict the size and number of meals, and to completely post (rejection of eating all the seeds, which are normally the basis of their diet). It is called Bigu 辟谷. Such a person drinking water at most, and draws strength from the practice of respiratory - said to be eats Qi energy. I do not know how the human body can survive years without food, similar skills are attributed to Hindu Yogis, and Taoism are considered to be a natural step in the quest for immortality (though to understand this term).
Liu told of his way, about how in tough times is always someone to help her - including a big support in the reconstruction of the temple. One of the rich local followers of Taoism offered 100tys. yuan for renovation, but Liu refused to take the money and asked go for it to buy building materials. The donor was very surprised to not want anything for himself, for the unusual in these times when many people are becoming monks just to get rich. Liu is interested in only pure meditation, away from the hustle and pursuit of large human communities, she reluctantly takes the guests, however, has many students - including small children who are very thankful recipients of Taoist teachings. We talked further, past us whirled a guy from a dog, from time to time doing pictures Lesser M cell. When you went out, Liu said in an undertone that he could not speak a lot - also when it comes to internal alchemy details - I do not know this man and sees him only the first time. Then it started to get late, so we left, doing before you took pictures before the gate of the Sixth Heaven Grotto.
couplet on the gate is an excerpt from a famous poet's poem Age Tang, Wang Wei'a 王维, and reads:
"I learned to look in silence on the mountain glories
under the branches of pine trees and eat sunflower seeds covered with dew"
Photo Liu at the gates of the Heavenly Cave - on both sides of the entrance there is a fragment of a famous poem by Wang Wei'a
Climate these verses to a very fit place, Taoist temple among the mists hung on the wall of the cliff.
王维 Wang Wei (701-761) was not only an outstanding poet of his era, but also well-known painter, and his poems obviously do Taoist and Buddhist ideals to withdraw from life and go in the inaccessible, wild places far from human settlements. Wang Wei in his poetry describes the misty mountain landscapes, with no traces of man, clearly inspired by Chinese painting pejzarzowym. Poetry Wei'a Wang was also the inspiration for the creation of Gustav Mahler's "Farewell" - the last part of the famous "Song of the Earth."
Photo: Exit the Taoist temples
mild slope we went a bit higher, until we reached the Cave of devouring Dawn 餐霞 洞. At present just fall down the first rays of rising sun gina in the deep darkness of the cave. In the cave at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries lived 齐修兰 Xiulan Qi. Well-educated and coming from a family of academics, here inhabited, when poverty forced her to bury the deceased at a young age on the slope of her husband's wild mountains. Qi remained with her husband even after his death - she spent the rest of the year living in a cave next to the graves of her beloved. In 1914, Li Yuanhong 黎元洪, then president of the Republic of China, during a visit at the top has left the word "Pure as the Autumn Frost" commemoration of the virtue Xiulan Qi.
Photo: A "Pure as the autumn frost, Li Hongyu calligraphy brush on the rock next to the Cave of devouring Dawn
Then we went further up the hill to the top of the mountains, on which stood the pagoda Dynasty concubine Liang 梁 妃 塔. Pagoda is nearly 30m high, was originally built in the 6th century AD, later destroyed and rebuilt several times, the last time in 1947 - and restored in 1978. It is a symbol Tiantai Mountains and the Red Fortress.
Photo: Among the maturing of mists and darkness loomed faintly outline pagodas
has a 7 storey pagoda (pagoda always have an odd number of levels) is built on a square. Traditionally, a pagoda built as a type of sarcophagus, in which you placed the ashes of deceased monks, and especially Shelizi 舍利子 - crystals, which were found among the fuses monks, who reached a high degree of proficiency in meditation. A few months ago we saw a genuine Shelizi when staying at one of the temples in Ningbo - they looked like uncut diamonds.
Photo: Pagoda concubine of the Liang dynasty, crowning the summit of the mountains, a symbol of Tiantai
Soon it became quite dark, carefully and slowly went down the mountains, we entered a nearby hotel and asked to call taxis, and when a taxi drove into rustic restaurant, we ate two days earlier. We ate dinner there, vegetarian, and then drove up fee in the vicinity of the hotel.
Photo: When I came down from above the fog slowly dissipated
After a walk to the hotel Mala M again repeated lessons, she was quite tired, so perhaps that is precisely fatigue offended Large M, that he ordered her to read English. In the end, both girls fell asleep, and now it's time for me.
The next part of the relationship is here:
Part 6 - Light Cliff Cold Mountains
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