Earlier parts of the relationship are located here:
Part 1 - The town and the master Zhiyi
Part 2 - Temple High Of light and rocky valley
Part 3 - Taoist Tongbai Palace and the Raiders of immortality
DAY 5:
Part 1 - The town and the master Zhiyi
Part 2 - Temple High Of light and rocky valley
Part 3 - Taoist Tongbai Palace and the Raiders of immortality
DAY 5:
path leading to the house of Han Shan is truly ridiculous.
There is a way, but you do not see a trace of the car or horse.
converging with each other gorges - hard to keep track of their corners,
chaotically mixed rock - an incredibly harsh.
Thousands of grass bending under the weight of dew,
Wooded hillside pines murmur in the wind.
I still lost a shortcut leading to the house, asking a shadow
Body: As for me Do you understand?
Today I woke up the girl and almost forced to get up early and go for breakfast. The restaurant crowd - at the congress was held every August just principals of local schools driving. Currently, Chinese are a lot of travels, tourism and business, but a dozen years ago, when most worked in state factories, the only possibility of departure were the delegations to various conferences, these conferences usually held in the attractive tourist spots - it makes a real minimal tourist traffic, China had as-such facilities. Today is completely different, a private business flourishes, There were some scuffles to eat, but najedlismy August setnie, quickly prepared a way out and went to the bus stop. From there we went north to the station, where he learned, and the Earliest bus rides to the summit Huading about 8:10, the passage takes about an hour. The last leaves at 13:00, he also is the last returning - that goes back about 14:00. The fare is Y11. Information profitable, just as we put together, in order to get up so quickly? Then We took a taxi which drove us miles taksowkarka the long distance bus station 客运站. There we got on the bus to the village Jietou 街头 镇 - journey took about 45 minutes and cost Y6.5 per person. Transfer was sympathetic, though the weather this yourself - the sky cloudy, overcast with dark blue clouds, gloomy, though warm. One of the pasazerek as soon as she got to Busua, it began to gorge some real disgrace in plastic bag.
Photo: The residents are very sociable Jietou
not over 10 minutes, and the food was back to the bag - so I sat next to everything I saw, only the texture was smooth, and some colors such little defined. Normal rzygi. Opened the window and again it was fun. Do not understand why someone who is not going to take motion sickness pills are any, and do not sit in front, only the rear wheel, and even August zazera something? The trip passed quickly, we were quite excited as our goal was to cold Cliff 寒 岩, a place where a hermit and poet famous Hanshan meditated and wrote poetry.
Photo: Hanshan - Cold Mountain - a mysterious hermit and poet
Hanshan 寒山 - Cold Mountain - is a rather mysterious figure, lived during the Tang Dynasty, probably in the 8th century AD He came from northern China, the capital city of Xianyang 咸阳but most likely political turmoil forced him to go to the wild south - and right here, on ways of Gor Tiantai Hanshan lived in a cave, located at Cold Stone Gora 寒 石山 from accepting the name, moreover, under whom is known to this day. The cave is located under the cliff, known as the Cold cliff 寒 岩. Although many sources it believes to be the Zen monk, and even the embodiment of one of boddhisatw, poetry Hanshana (300 lines) indicates that his views were peculiar connection with Buddhism Taoism. On the other hand, it really was not a monk, but rather a hermit and only occasionally went to a Buddhist Temple Clean the State, to meet with his friend, You will find 拾得 (working in the temple kitchen) and a master of the Big stick 丰 干. Poems Hanshana describe life in the hermitage, away from the people among the wildlife of the references are full of mystical characteristic of a person seeking spiritual liberation through meditation.
Photo: Hanshan and Shide (find), his inseparable friend, the course of time have passed into legend and became the folk deities:
I must admit, it really Hanshana and discovered his poetry until late in the evening of our first day in Tiantai. The girls have already slept, I started to browse among the books and bought them, I stumbled on the first mention of the "freak of the Cold Mountains", which, as it turned out, was hiding in one of the caves near the Tiantai, moments later it turned out that among the purchases had fallen in August book of his poems. I refer to the interested parties with Polish translations of poems Hanshana - Han Shan: Poems, "Cold Mountain" . Note: it is best to read them later in the evening somewhere in the mountains ... (All verses quoted here come from this page - thanks and greetings for Andrew Osinski!).
The place for me personally also been associated with this, from Bill Porter, whose book "The Road to Heaven" exerted big influence on me, just became known thanks to a translation of poetry chwalonemu Hanshana the j.angielski.
Small digression - China May your Silk Road, Tea-Droge, but Age of Tang Poetry Trail 唐诗之路, linking places associated with the most important poets of the Tang Dynasty (7-10 AD) - the biggest period of prosperity in Chinese culture and poetry - is much less known. Tiantai is an important place on the trail and the famous Li Bai 李白, known for his romantic poetry and drunken mode of life - was at Tiantai twice and devoted himself to the description of this place a dozen of his poems.
Returning to our trip - finally got to Jietou, first steps, we went to is located in the heart of the commercial store townships - to seek medical language. The village looked very typical - a low storey buildings poor interwoven with new buildings of 3-4 floors, lots of garbage, some dirty soup kitchen, jaded and busy year in the country reigning metal trike trike. A lot of people, someone there playing in the card, someone pytlujacy, some eating lunch, the noise and movement typical small Chinese towns. Only the supermarket fit there like a fist to the nose, but it is a time stamp, proof of the rapid changes in China. In supersamie loud music - Chinese pop, shop assistants talk about, and eat pasta with a tin boxes, I go to the premises on which the inscription 'office - no entry to strangers, and ask about how to get to Cold cliff. It turns out that the saleswoman was from the village Hou'an 后 岸 located not far from the cliff. Advised to take Tricycles, who for Y30 should drive us there. She said that it is access to the cliff adjacent to the Bright Cold cliff - accessible by regular buses for the buck, the distance between the cliffs is 4km (I knew about it from the guide), so you can move from one to another infantry in an hour. So we left the square in front of the store, with the driver zgadalem Tricycles have agreed a sum of Y20, and we got into a tin tilt.
Photo: This fabulous tricycle powiozl us Jietou uphill Hanshana
M Mala was thrilled - a few days ago she wanted my dad bought a Honda CRV, but now it became her dream to have a tin trike with open backs. We drove through the town the way first, then among the dry this time of year ryzowisk and fascinating geological formations, hot / powerful scale, with vertical walls, overgrown with pine trees, bamboo groves.
Photo: View of the village Hou'an in Gora gave the grim Cold Stone
After about half an hour we reached the end of standing in private mighty rock formations, and our driver explained that it is already Cold Cliff. We also showed way to the cave, and explained how to move on to the Clear cliff. NB Both cliffs are on the same top, one is returned to the east (Cliff Bright 明 岩), and the second - the western (Cold Cliff). Gora became among the rice fields and groves mandarin, aroused awe and majesty of its raw beauty of the vertical rock walls.
Photo: Raw vertical cliffs Gory Cold Stone had a big impression on us
first walked by a small bridge spanning over the narrow but deep ravine, in which floated down stream, and we follow a narrow path winding among mandarin COURTS . On the right you could see thick bamboo groves.
Photo: Bamboo tangerine groves and orchards at the TOP:
We were walking in silence - the place was like magic, deserted, mysterious. At the end of the path must Leading up split into - this was leading to the left to the stairs and on to the cave, whose passage we saw a huge hole from the input path, the right path was leading up the hill along the vertical wall, between the huge boulders. The right looked more fascinating, so we went there first to direct our steps.
Photo: A huge rock wall next to which are a small lane leading to the cave:
After a while we found between the vertical scale - Which formed like a monstrous dark corner room without a roof - and huge boulders. From the top of mountains fell by water, zraszajaca boulders, and making them black and shiny surfaces. Little M was fascinated by the place, of course, they both immediately went we founded kapoce and wash their hands on this rare water curtain. How to write the guides, when the wind blows the water is sprayed into the mist, and the rays of the setting sun exerts Nana fellates The rainbow. This view is one of the eight famous views of the mountain and Tiantai called "Cold cliff at Sunset" 寒 岩 夕照.
Photo: Water drops from the top of a cliff on the giant boulders - a sunny day in August creates a rainbow on it:
Nam clouds enveloped the sky would not allow the watching of this phenomenon. Then we began to climb a path above - next to her we found inscriptions carved on a huge boulder and not mentioned in no guide. We tried to go higher, but at some point path turned into a dry riverbed a mountain stream and further the transition was difficult. So we came back the same way - with the course the Lesser M again by washing your hands in the falling water - and we went towards the cave.
Photo: The entrance to the cave under the cliff Cold:
Its magnitude surprised us - the entrance to it is 15m high, 48m wide and the same depth-first cave is 70m. It looks like a huge room - no 3tys. m2 surface.
Photo: The cave is huge - both stand in the middle of M
In the few corners, there were the small shrine, one of them into a small hole covered with a tin lid studzienny, on the left side of the steel neat little 2-storey complex of buildings - such as after a while it turned out kind of a primitive temple.
picture: the altar at the wall inside the cave
Under its wall stood a stone-based motherboards with the names of people, which - as preached word - gave datej minimum of Y100 to rebuild the temple of the Cold Mountains. Above our heads could be heard squeaking bats, and every sound magnified echo. Large M came home from the cave, Mala M to her after it joined, and I further I explored, and walked into the building to partially brick and partially white walls. On its walls hung Buddhist maxims, and on the first floor, on the shaky wooden floor was located a small altar.
Photo: On the side of the cave there is a small Buddhist shrine, which looks after Mrs Xie
After a while I went down, and the older natnalem August, smiling woman - named Xie 谢 - which, as you it turned out, 5 years lived in the temple and took care of her. As explained before it lived in the temple Ms. Wang, who with their own money, I am sublime. Ms Wang died kilka lat temu, ponoc nagrzeszyla za zycia, stad pod jego koniec wzniosla swiatynia i zamieszkala w niej, chcac w ten sposob odkupic swoje winy. Xie miala 60 lat, byla bardzo pogodna osoba, i oprowadzila nas po jaskini, pokazujac na jej scianach formy w ksztalcie legendarnego feniksa (ptaka, ktory co 500 lat spala sie po to, by odrodzic sie na nowo z popiolow), ryb, buddy. Jak powiedziala, sama gora ma ksztalt lwa, ktorego paszcza jest jaskinia, a jej polnocno-wschodnia czesc to jego cialo i ogon. Na dnie jaskini mozna zobaczyc zwinietego smoka z glowa skierowana ku studni; z lewej strony jaskinii widac skale wygladajaca jak olbrzymi zolw, a z prawej - glowe weza wypelzajacego zza gory. Zolw i waz pilnuja jaskinii 龟蛇守洞. Przewodniki write, the turtle and snake form a Famous Taoist deity Xuanwu 玄武 midnight, the Taoist emphasis of this place.
Photo: Ms. Xie meditation position on a boulder, on which he meditated Hanshan
Then Xie showed us a great boulder from the entrance to the cave - as he explained it was a stone, on which Hanshan meditated and demonstrated how looks like the position of meditation. As said, the meditation is most important that all thoughts were removed from the mind, and that was only in the mind of the Buddha. I admit, with a simple village woman, for what I consider, on first glance, then it showed us a completely different, unexpected face. Xie Then we poured a bottle of water from cave wells (Apparently the magic of the healing power). She said the cave is pleasantly cool in summer and warm in winter, and because it faces south-west, from 8:30 am to evening sun illuminates the interior.
Photo: View from the cave in the surrounding fields and mountains
After the interview, we said goodbye, I'm still in the meantime I threw some money into the box for donations, and we went to the right. Xie discouraged us the path, saying that can not be present to go. I had wanted to see one more attractions of this place - the rock formations in the shape of the bridge called the Bridge of Magpies 鹊桥. We went, therefore, among the sharp grass path, which skaleczyly in the handle of the poor Mala M (but now know that plants too have their weapons, sharp edges pila). Path at some point ended with a slight tangerine orchard, the closed gate primitive. I told the girls, in order for me zaczekaly (Large M announced the picnic - consume cans, old rolls and chocolate from the package) and I went further path. After a while it became very faintly visible, very overgrown with thorns and high hostile kaleczacymi grasses. I walked between huge boulders, and I came to the place where the path ended. He turned to go back to the girls, I looked back i. .. Most saw the Magpies!
Photo: Two views of the Bridge of Magpies - shining on the page:
...i zacieniona - podobne ujecie znajduje sie na okladce tlumaczenia poezji Hanshana, ktorego dokonal Bill Porter:
Wrazenie bylo duze, spedzilem tam dluzsza chwile, po czym wrocilem do dziewczyn. Puszka z tunczykiem byla juz otwarta, czerstwawa bulka dodala nowych sil, jeszcze lyk cudownej wody i ruszylismy w kierunku Jasnego Klifu.
Zdjecie: Droga wzdluz Gory Zimnego Kamienia, i niewielka chatka stojaca przy niej
Powiedziano nam, ze nalezy trzymac sie caly czas krawedzi gory, a z pewnoscia dojdziemy do celu. Szlismy powoli, podziwiajac niesamowite formacje skalne z naszej prawej strony, zwane In the iron armor dragon 铁甲 龙, and bearing first crop fields on the left.
Photo: Dragon in the Iron Armor
After a moment, appeared beside us, a stream, also saw a machine breaking down the stones - probably the rubble on the road. Little M was terrified when they heard noise and seeing the murky water and asked whether fishes can not hurt, but I uspokoilismy, the stream is long and the fish definitely found their place in the quiet house. Then we came to the village - which as it turned out, his name was Zhangjiatong 张家桐.
Photo: Time in the village Zhangjiatong stopped a few hundred years ago
Photo: Old wooden house in the village
And once again moving in time - a lot of homes have several centuries, the stone paths between the houses, wells, people are poor but cheerful, smiling. Lesser M, of course aroused great interest (as usual), older people went out to see us.
Photo: No need to even have any teeth to be happy - do contemporary Hanshan?
hide As with "Cold Mountain"
Living with mountain plants and berries
all my life - it's what I worry about?
Everyone goes only by his karma,
Days and months flow like water, it's just time
wykrzesane sparks of the flint.
Go ahead and let the world has changed - I am happy
seated himself among the rocks
show us the way, We said, from whence we come and what we do, we went further. Time passed inexorably, and we realized that Bright did not have time to see the cliff.
Photo: This rock formation is located on the northern end of the Cold Stone Mountains - the right path leads to the Cold cliff, left - to clear
road forked, in the end we found the right way to Jietou and learned that the last bus back from the cliff to the Clear Jietou at 16:30. Ideally we are fit, as the last bus from the Tiantai Jietou according to our information, driving down a few minutes after 17:00.
little we stood and waited for the warm-up at the end of August we went in the direction of Jietou.
Photo: Old house in the village Hecun:
... and a kindergarten in a village club culture, the older children care of the little ones:
went through the village Hecun 何 村, walked, walked , fine rain began to fall, we ate some chocolate to improve moods, for the moment we entered the two small roadside Taoist shrines, a wonderful remnant of water we drink, and walked on - until we came to almost Jietou.
Photo: Women in rural China, or hard work in the field:
... or cottage - manually doing mat car seats:
Last 500m We traveled trips around Poland, whose driver reassured us that though the last bus to the Tiantai already went, then we can take a taxi, which takes passengers for Y10 and leaves when it has set. As soon as we left the Busua came up to our taxi driver, but the girls still wanted to buy something to drink in supersamie. At some point, asking the driver got the idea that we were going, I asked him to wait 5 minutes, he agreed, so he went out and saw. It grew dark, it rained harder and harder, and we waited for providing in-depth interview the surrounding residents. Waited, waited, and no taxi arrived.
Photo: Evening in Jietou, it's raining, it's cold, and taxi or widu nor slychu
Finally rode a small busik, whose driver invited us inside. Asked for how much we fasciases said he does not want money, he goes to Tiantai, bored him to ride alone, so it will take us for free. For this I was refused, because it was not proper, he was based, in the end cast sum of Y10 and went. Told us about himself - with no hotel in the Tiantai ajencje of which has Y110tys. per year, is also the feed factory in the city of Shaoxing 绍兴, which employs 100 people, 6 cars in the BMW 5 Series, a 22-year-old daughter in college at a famous Tongji University in Shanghai, and two years after her younger son of the learner in Tianjin. The conversation was nice, but I almost fell asleep. He took us under the bus station, said goodbye, we caught fares and we went to eat something promised Mala M KFC. Nasty joke there, but it tasted Lesser M, but was surprised that no chicken bones, because so far, given the chicken was not watching. I explained to her that what it is made of chicken, and this is bones and meat. We are very Mala M wondered ago. Then again We took a taxi, and very tired we returned to the hotel. Lesser M, as usual, had done the lessons, just a bath, and sleep.
day passes, night came and the word Hanshana somehow do not want to get out of head ...
Creditors do not turn back my head
Shaded
kindled a small fire when I suffer thirst, cook yourself some green vegetables.
I have no property rights, as a rich man with his enormous
barn and pasture -
He just stands a prison for oneself.
Once there, finding, can not get out.
Think about it -
know very well that this can happen and you ...
fifth part of the relationship preczytasz here:
Part 5 - Top Red Fortress and the Heavenly Cave
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