Wczesniejsze czesci relacji znajduja sie tutaj:
Czesc 1 - Miasteczko i mistrz Zhiyi
Czesc 2 - Swiatynia Wysokiej Swiatlosci i skalista dolina
Czesc 3 - Taoistyczy Palac Tongbai i poszukiwacze niesmiertelnosci
Czesc 4 - Poezja Zimnej Gory
Czesc 5 - Gora Czerwonej Twierdzy i Niebianska Jaskinia
"Zaledwie znajdę się na Zimnej Górze — zmartwienia ustają,
Czesc 1 - Miasteczko i mistrz Zhiyi
Czesc 2 - Swiatynia Wysokiej Swiatlosci i skalista dolina
Czesc 3 - Taoistyczy Palac Tongbai i poszukiwacze niesmiertelnosci
Czesc 4 - Poezja Zimnej Gory
Czesc 5 - Gora Czerwonej Twierdzy i Niebianska Jaskinia
"Zaledwie znajdę się na Zimnej Górze — zmartwienia ustają,
Koniec the tangled, przeczulonym mind.
carelessly starch lines on the stone rock
accepting whatever comes up - like a boat floating on the water. "
Hanshan (Cold Mountain), Chinese hermit and poet, 8-9 Century AD
DAY 7:
morning we woke up, unfortunately, not according to plan, that is early, but although it got the hotel breakfast. we decided to go on around the place, which of the many, which in the past few days we have seen, accounted for most to our taste. We decided to go the bright Cliff 明 岩. Bright Cliff is located near the Cold The cliff, both places are located within the same gory - gory Cold Stone 寒 石山 and remote are about 4km. Recently we have come to light almost cliff, but it was too late to be visited. Today I drove up fee to the bus station and from there by bus to the town Jietou 街头.
Photo: Manufacturer of bamboo brooms in Jietou:
find us okazalao After August, the bus goes to Bright cliff just after midday, so I started to negotiate with the owner of Jetty, and when I wanted to Y30 already wanted to leave, it turned out there are two customers who eat at the same site, and just Y10. Horse took us fifteen minutes, the owner of the name Xiang 项 blew us on the road to the cliff.
Photo: Landscape of the cliff's clear:
We went so expensive, the weather was not great, quite cold, the sky covered with a blue coating of clouds, as if had snow. After a few minutes walk along the river, we passed through a short tunnel in the rock obstructing the road and we reached the temple gate.
Photo: Gateway to the Temple of the Yellow Bright cliff - the right side of the Lion Gora:
We went to her, at the entrance sat on a low stool older woman choosing the type of kohlrabi, with one eye and watching a program on DVD lecture Champion Pure Emptiness 净空 about Buddhism.
Photo: Even choosing kohlrabi can soak up the Buddha's teachings:
from next door came home a bit younger woman asking us to buy tickets, "Please buy tickets, the Buddha Amitabo !"... Tickets bought, I became interested in books as a gift I got a little brochure about Clearly cliff. A woman told us that on both sides of the cliff there are many forms of humans and animals, associated with traditional anecdotes. With a little imagination you can really see it was a fantastic rock formations on the walls of the valley. On the right side pointed to the stone, which looks like a man carrying something on his back. As said, it was a Mulian 目 连, a with 10 students of the Buddha, rescued from the hell her mother, who for the wicked deeds was thrown there. These types of stories associated with famous Chinese mountains is plenty, the Chinese tour guides oprowadzajacy always sleeps with them as with the sleeve, comparing the strangely-formed rocks to the famous characters from history ilegend. Hence, do not attach much importance to this type of information. A woman also told us a very serious voice that this is a place where the goddess is always responds to the requests of the faithful. That phrase has stuck in our memory - I actually felt quite strange at the entrance outside the gate. Turns out the gate closed nature of the valley, surrounded on three sides by steep, high scales. The valley was narrow, wila like a snake among the rocks. Place was completely cut off from the outside world.
We went for the voice of instinct, or the mountains, stone stairs to the left. After several minutes of climbing we reached the summit held on the rock (called the scale of a white elephant), a small clearing - on which stood inside is made of iron kilkunastometrowej highest pagoda.
picture: the Iron Pagoda on Mount Lion - with its foundations buried is reportedly Hanshan:
look pretty bad, yet We cast a look at the house with a small shrine, before which a small M bowed and handed the gift candy. While both M explored terrain, I looked into booklets donated by a Buddhist at the entrance. To the great surprise it turned out that it is precisely this place, bright cliff, is considered by many to be the dwelling place of the poet and meditation Hanshana (Cold Mountains, more of it you can read in my relationship with Cold cliff located here.) Both in the time Hanshana cliffs called "cold Cliffs" 寒 岩. In AD 957 years have been divided into cold and Hidden Cliff Cliff 暗 岩, in 1008 the latter was named cliff 明 岩 Clearly, as he was returned to the east. Later I started being careful Hanshan lived with only one of the cliffs - the Cold - but even in his poetry is mentioned, and "lived in the two cliffs." Hanshan he wrote also that "wants to go to the eastern cliff." Reading the brochure had the impression that someone is trying to be all price to attract tourists to the bait in the form of Hanshana headquarters, and the truth probably lies - as usual - somewhere in the middle. As it turned out, serious publications not only confirmed that Hanshan Clearly lived on the cliffs, but also that was buried here - just around the Iron Pagoda.
Photo: The Mysterious Valley Bright inside of cliff:
Then we went down we went, and depth-first valley. Surrounding rocks seemed to be higher and there is still threatening, there was silence broken only occasionally przeciaglymi bird whistles, reinforced by the echo, the atmosphere had become quite incredible. After a few dozen meters in the middle of the valley we noticed that the temple building disputes.
Photo: Buddhist Temple in the center of the valley:
We went inside, there were the gold-plated statues of the Buddha, the goddess Guanyin and arhats - Buddhist saints. The pavilion looked like everyone else in any Buddhist temple. Interestingly there were two statues boddhisatw ("enlightened beings") - Buddhist deities: boddhisatwy Manjusri (Wisdom), seated on a lion and Samantabhadra boddhistawy (compassion), riding a white elephant.
Photos: Boddhisatva Manjusri - lion, whose mind riding the wild symbol that can be tamed only through meditation:
... and Samantabhadra - white elephant symbolizes the might of Buddhism, which overcomes all adversity:
We went out with him, so the back door, and we saw the cliff with several pavilions glued to the rock wall. In addition to steel building, from which came the sounds of conversation, a little further was located a small grove of bamboo green, beside which on a small hill stood a small stone pagoda. After the stairs we went to the door on the right, Imagine our surprise when it turned out that behind them there is a huge cave (called the moonlight cave or cave 月光 洞 明 岩洞 Bright cliff) with statues of Buddhist deities, walls obwieszonymi cards with requests, the names of the dead, people seen in a dream. In the cave of gloom prevailed, at the entrance to the left slumbered - or so we thought - an elderly nun. We started to walk to the cave, watch is introduced the figure, reading quietly placed on papierkach requests, we found at the stone wall plaques commemorating Danegeld Shaolin monk 少林寺, whose requests have been met, and who in gratitude handed to the temple Y50tys. We also bestowed a donation to the temple, Lesser M signed up with pride in Chinese in the book donations, and the size of the levy has been confirmed by the signature of the nuns - Jingcheng 净 诚.
Photo: Cave moonlight, deep inside the plunged in meditation Jingcheng:
Later next walked around the cave, every one of us watching something else, a nun was taken probably in the meditative trance, with eyes closed soundlessly refusing the sutras, and I instinctively started to walk in circles around the altar . Frankly, as I felt quite strange - but at the same time very comfortable, both physically and mentally. After a while, Came to the cave, dressed in a long brown robe of a woman (which means it was a member of a community buddystkiej, but not a nun) and has also begun to walk quietly around the altar reciting the name of Buddha 南 无 阿弥陀佛 Amithaba. We went so that together, and the strangest thing with my girls, which is usually rather quickly get bored staying in temples, too, could not somehow get out of the cave. Then Large M - which looks at the world realistically and not easily amenable to some strange influences - confessed that the site has any strange energies like never before, never feel, in general did not want to leave the cave, kept her place - in contrast to the Cold cliff , where we do not even it wanted to enter. I must admit that when Large M asked me, which of the caves - whether it into Cold cliff, whether that's clear on - I would choose the place for meditation, I had no doubt - this place here was a special, magical, and magic.
the cave took some pictures, I found among others hanging on the wall with it to a recorded conversation between Cold Mountain and you will find. Noticed it sitting beside the table, and not blazing a cigarette, old man, and gave me a card with stosiku lying on the table. Card contained the same text, which is on the wall. This is one of the classic Buddhist dialogues, enlightening the faithful as facing the facts of life, below my translation of this dialogue:
"One day Hanshan (Cold Mountain) asked Shide (find): What to do when people throw insults me, having fun at my expense, hurt, scoff, do not respect, treat with contempt, humiliate, deceive? Shide replied must endure it, to give way, letting it, avoid, to show patience, respect, do not draw attention, and then wait for a few year and meet with them, "
In the end we left the cave, and before its entry stayed for a while. I started asking in August in August talking about Famous women next five horses, which stuck in the cliff. One of them approached us and showed scales in front of us. Now, in the Tang Dynasty (AD 7-10) Qiuyin 闾丘 胤 Lu, Tai 台州 governor of the region, came to the Temple with the intention of the Clean Your Hanshanowi pay a visit, about whom champion Feng'gan 丰 干 (Big Stick) said him that he is the reincarnation of Manjusri boddhistavy. Hanshan had not, however, would like to meet, he threw only "Feng'gan a tattletale!", turned away and began to flee. Lu sent him five soldiers on horseback, Hanshan who pogonili for up to Bright cliff. It seemed to them that drove it to the place, is closed, but to their surprise, Hanshan hand movement caused the parting of the rocks obstructing his way, went in it, then it immediately closed behind him, chasing him przytrzaskujac five horses. Qiuyin surprised Lu said: "Hanshan disappeared without a trace, and five horses hid themselves among the green mountains." Until today, the rock wall you can see the Hidden Bake Equine 五 马 隐 in the form of dark spots that look like horses partially closed in the rock.
Photo: Entrance to the Monastery directed towards the East:
After a while we went in the direction of buildings suspended the side of the cliff. As it turned out they were built around the cave, is famous for Gora Cold 寒 石山 boulders.
After the stone, gently climbing to the top of the stairs we entered a small toward the old gate, over which hung a plaque with the inscription wykaligrafowanym "nunnery turned towards the East" 朝阳 庵. We walked through the door ajar to a small, slightly unkempt yard. She stood on it a sizable censer, long bamboo drugs were lying, probably used for the construction of scaffolding (bamboo has a very high tensile strength, much less than steel, is lightweight and very commonly used in China for the construction of scaffolding), next to the tree grew grejfrutowe defeat heavy laden with fruit.
Photo: Grapefruit, still on the tree
Grejfruty next mandarins are the most locally farmed fruit tree season does not start in November and lasts through the winter. The best known grejfruty in China grow in Fujian 福建, but these are considered the tastiest of the Ring 玉环 Jade Island in Zhejiang 浙江. They are juicy, sweet, perfectly operable on the skin clears me, and the earwigs are often placed in a newly renovated homes, as the absorbent toxic substances emitted by paints and glues. After a while we heard quiet voices reciting Buddhist sutras. The door leading the cave (called the "Great Cave" 高大 洞) siedzaly two women at a table dressed in brown robes lay buddystek and monotonously read by Buddhist prayers.
Photo: Buddystki the Great Cave intently reading the sutra:
Such monotonous recitations are supposed to introduce into a trance, like meditation. Christianity also uses this method - such as a rosary. When one of them a very small M, got up and smile away her some tangerines. In the meantime, we walked in, the cave served as a sacred space, like that visited by us earlier, but apparently was still under repair. However, in the middle Generous steel altar with large statues of Maitreya Buddha, the goddess Guanyin, Buddy Sakyamuniego and several smaller figures. Based on the floor lying on the altar table legs with the words "Hall Hanshana" 寒山 殿. This cave was a place where he gave teachings famous Chinese scholar Qi 齐 召 南 Zhaonan.
Zhaonan Qi (1703-1768) was a famous geographer, it is the main work of famous "Outline of treated Water" 水道 提纲, descriptive extracts water (rivers, canals) across China, from Tibet and Qinghai in the west, and to the east - along the east coast of the country, ranging from the Sea of \u200b\u200bOkhotsk in the north and from the South Chinese Sea in the south. This treaty had won a great recognition and is called "a classic Qing Dynasty Wod" 清代 水 经. Thanks to an innate predisposition Qi quickly climbed the career ladder officials, he was also the function of deputy minister of the Ministry of Ceremonies 礼部 侍郎. Qi reportedly had a perfect memory - during one of the round saw the site on those shelves in the municipal eight volumes of books, so I asked about their loan. The next morning I gave them to the host, but Qi said that they can take with you. Qi Zhaonan replied that not necessarily because I read it and mastered it in whole. The host did not want to believe him, pulled out two of the volumes and demanded Qi questions about content, what Qi replied smoothly with full quotations from the books. Unfortunately, the age of 46 had Qi serious accident - a fall from a horse caused the skull fracture. During treatment, the emperor personally maintained that Qi was properly treated and received the best medicine. Qi after the accident asked for permission to return to his homeland, he returned to the Tiantai and here in the Great Cave of rooms arranged his teachings. Until today, the scales Bright cliff there are two hand made calligraphy Qi - including Gao 高 characters (High) 大 Da (Big), written in 1761.
Girls went down back towards the small pawiloniku with gilded figure in the middle, while I turned up, after a dozen meters to climb the stairs come to the Cave of sunlight 日光 洞 (as preached beside the inscription engraved in stone). Caves protected the newly-built pavilion, decorated in traditional style, however, and placed it inside were three statues of Buddhist monks - Feng'gana (Great Batting) Hanshana (Cold Mountains) and Shide (Find the.) I mentioned them in relation to the Cold cliff - it's three characters is famous Tiantai.
Photo: Pavilion hiding in the entrance to the cave in the sunlight:
Feng'gan 丰 干, who lived between AD 7 and 8, lived in Temple for the Clean Your Library, had an eyebrow hair , was a tall, left the temple and returned to her riding a tiger, which aroused fear among the other monks. Do not interfere in conversation, and when someone asked him about the Dharma (Buddhist science), Feng'gan just spoke, "At any time ...". Feng'gan was eccentric, he was considered a madman, often disturbed the silence of the temple the night with loud singing. Feng'gan appeared suddenly when the governor mentioned above Qiuyin Lu suffered from severe migraines and no medication did not help him. He said that "illness is born of delusion, and I can heal only pure water." So he was given a cup of clean water, Feng'gan pomruczal incantations to it, take a sip of water to his lips and blew me to the manager. The "shower" removed the whole pain. It's already at this meeting Feng'gan recommended a meeting with him Hanshan and Shide. The meeting ended with the above-described failed quest for Hanshan. Among Buddhists is a widespread belief that he was the incarnation of Feng'gan Amithaba, ruler of the Western world (paradise), and Hanshan and Shide - boddhisatwami, creatures that help support her living creatures from the sea of \u200b\u200bsuffering, in which they live.
Photo: Hidden in a grove of bamboo gazebo - a place of meditation of Bodhidharma:
Besides statues in the cave was empty, was apparently subjected to renovation, so it quickly got out and went down to the gazebo, with which you have become both M . As it turned out arbor protect Hanshana figure, standing before a small cave called the Cave of the First Arrival 初 来 洞. As proclaimed legend, he meditated in a cave that Boddhidharma 达摩, The first patriarch of Chan Buddhism / Zen in China, who later lived in a cave near the world famous Shaolin Temple 少林寺 (where he meditated for nine years, facing the rock wall, and it appeared on his finisher). Apparently also the first visit the cave wall with a little imagination you can spot a reflection of the form "Boddhidharmy who arrived from the West" 达摩西 来 (from the west or India). Next to the gazebo, there were the clumps of bamboo, said to have grown one of chopsticks, which he put in the slot on the rock Boddhidharma.
Photo: A small pagoda commemorating Hanshana and Shide:
walked down the stairs on to the seen Bright cave before next cliff stone pagodas. As it turned out it was erected to the memory and Find the Cold Mountains. Situated on a large stone among the bamboo grove, surrounded by high vertical cliff walls, stood beside the stone stairs leading somewhere further into the interior of a huge chasm. We went to them, passing by another figure Hanshana.
Photo: stairs leading to the Cave of the Immortal:
stairs after a while (called Grania blue sky 青天 岭) started to come down and lead us into the huge boulders. Rock walls were closed suddenly on us, damp gloom prevailed, it became quite amazing. This place is called Cliff complex 合掌 岩 hand, because the rocks resemble hands folded in prayer.
Photo: Cliff complex hand - between the scales visible in the background with a height between General Glaz 50m:
Yet dozens of steps and we entered the huge cave called the Cave of Immortal 仙人洞. This cave is the largest cliff in the complex Lager, has more than 2tys. m2 in its interior we found several small altars, including the characters Hanshana, Feng'gana and Shide and Taoist deities and Jigonga.
Photo: At the entrance to the Cave of the Immortal (the left side of the stairs you can see Large M, which gives the idea of \u200b\u200bthe magnitude scale)
Chinese people are not specifically religiously orthodox, do not bother them Submission varying worship deities, or even placing pieces of different religions under one roof temple. Already since the 11th century AD, there were strong trends in the syncretic Chinese religions - Buddhism drew from Confucianism and Taoism, Taoist classics explained to Confucianism and Taoism - especially school Internal Elixir - have acknowledged the Buddhist "Heart Sutra" 心 经, and Confucian "Book of obedience" for 孝经most important for his followers a letter (in addition to the basic course, "Book of the Way and Virtue" 道德 经).
Photo: A portion of the altar in the Cave of the Immortal
Being in a cave uzmyslowilismy why the cliff also called "hidden". A few hours ago, going to him, did not even expect that conceals many amazing places, so many caves, go, scales.
After a while we left the cave and slowly walked along the cliff walls, rising to klkunastu randomly scattered boulders, which watered the water pumped in from the mountains, poetically called the "Silver Line" 银 绳. Just a few yards and we got to the valley's centrally located pavilion. Mala M showed me the still small path around the huge boulder next to the temple, and old calligraphy, which instantly noticed. I took a point of honor to find myself for me different inscriptions on the rocks, which are decorated with attractions in Tiantai (and, moreover, over China - traditionally educated Chinese are fond of leaving inscriptions in the form of calligraphy in beautiful places, calligraphy were then carved into the rock, and often painted with red paint for easy identification).
Photo: Exit Cave immortal, deep inside the temple building, seen from behind:
It was getting late, it was time to go back. This time we wanted not to go back a dozen miles to the town. I quit, however, given to me look at the brochure at the entrance, okazalalo that it is still a lot of places where we were. So I went to the nearby Cave of the Lunar Light, where at the table next to the entrance sat an elderly man, the man who gave me a card with a dialogue between Hanshan and Shide. I asked, where is the famous word Light cliff and boulders Strange 明 岩 怪石. Man began to explain, but after a while he decided to lead us there. So we went after him - firstly dzwiach stood in the cave and showed us a huge rock in front saying, "This is just Laplace mantis toad!"螳螂 钓 蟾. "Mantis" is a scale with a height of approximately 50m and 10m diameter, the same who have just walked from the Lesser M; on the top of a huge growing morning glories, whose vine is passed over the path to a bit less rock-like motionless toad, and looks It is like the front legs mantis Laplace plaza.
Photo: vegetable beds of the Gora Lion:
We went away, right (north) side, along the side of a cliff called the Lion 狮峰 Gora, and after a while the famous inscription zbaczylismy, we were looking for. The inscription can be read both as "bright cliff and strange stones, but also backwards -" Strange are the boulders and cliff Light "bears the same inscription 款 that made it in 1802. We passed on, going to a small plot planted with vegetables, and the path we have come to a heap of giant boulders. It seemed to us that they are insurmountable, but our guide guided us narrow passage to a small gazebos.
Photo: At the Bridge of the Immortal ...
First, however, we passed under a flat stone bridge known as the Immortals 仙人 桥; rocks around were covered with moss, the place was hidden and mysterious, said to be here already meditated on hot summer Hanshan bottom, protecting themselves from the heat. Arbour, to which we have come, was surrounded by dense thickets of bamboo, and bear the names - it is not difficult to guess - and Shide Hanshana ...
Photo: Arbour Hanshana and Shide - in a cave underneath Hanshan meditating in the hot bottom
we went down, our guide left us in the direction of the buildings coming down at the entrance, and we even climbed a bit higher, rising to wybetonowanej platform - and discovering another cave. The cave was called "Lion Cave" 狮 洞 - the name of the top, which was located in August, its floor was paved, and within, the right of the white walls erected thereby creating a small room. However, we did not have time on their explorations. On the floor we noticed only a small wells, but without a trace of water.
Photo: View from the Cave Lion Gore elephant and iron Pagode
was getting gray, so we went on down to the exit. Cut off even a little chat with the women at the gate and order, and this time she shot the Mala M colic camera in the air, holding him by the belt. Suddenly - what was to predict the total - string wysmyknal it with handles and a camera after passing beautiful arc punched a concrete floor ... Our second, the last camera! Mala M froze in horror, Chinese people began to say that nothing happened ... it's like? Surely came across a second camera damn! The camera could not really come to himself, could not focus in August, when it seemed strange sounds. Then I began to wonder if this is not the case punishment for taking pictures sacred figures. Chinese people believe that the pictures should not be such to do, because it means disrespect for the dowry (?) And it brings bad luck. Fact fact, I twice landed on the rock, and of the fate of two cameras, we abolished. Fortunately Pocket Canon's a good product, after a while came back to each other as if nothing had happened. At this point, thank you designers of this camera, you did really good job, and my next camera will be Canon for sure (this "tough art" belonged to the Big M).
we went in the way back, it was already half-past four, taught by experience trip to Cold cliff no longer waited for the bus, only a brisk step, we went in the direction of the town, walking past us already familiar with the surroundings. Suddenly, toward nazemu surprise when we stopped a red passenger car, and the driver invited us inside. I - according to ancient Chinese proverb "better to be first a small man, and then Noble (than vice-versa)" 先 小人 后 君子 providently I asked how much he wants for a trip to town, and he replied that take us for free. We took, and the driver began to explain before me that he could not wait for us because we had a customer for whom a hurry, etc.. Only after a while I get it that this is the same rascal who fled during our previous stay here - had to wait on us when we did a quick shopping, and then disappeared. The world is small, really, but probably any good deity he had brought for us, and led the remorse I take. And well, because we did not have to walk yet another mood, especially Mala M. Thanks podwiezieniu we managed to cheat on the last bus from the Tiantai Jietou, and reach the city before 6 pm. Prior to the bus station in Tiantai we went by bus to the city, touching even a tailor. Krawiec was needed for this, in order to accurately obmierzyc Mala M, which we decided to make clothing that bears the national minority in Haina Li (it was one of the goals of my stay at Haina in December). Clothing was needed for the school parade to celebrate the Chinese New Year, the size of what I took from the Little M and I sent to the Institute of Nationalities minority (who is called to execute the gown) cos krawcowym were nothing like the local, hence we decided to visit with a professional. Professional helped us, and after a quick step, we passed to our friendly pub. Despite the insistence of the boss we decided not to order a pig cerebellum and stayed with vegetarian dishes. Food was nice and relaxing - choice Dan and I left the head of the discharged this sensational, but certainly part of our enthusiastic reception dinner hunger had mulled wine and rice.
Photo: No, boss, cerebellum today we do not want ...
pub Anyway, I recommend everyone who ever goes to Tiantai - it's called 达 京 拍档, located at the intersection of China and Labor 人民 路 劳动 路 and as the inscription on the glass provides a "pleasure at the level of street price of a hotel in soup kitchen. " Then quickly
We traveled to the hotel fee, Lesser M, of course not spared a repeat of the lessons duty and columns of bills, and then had nothing left us nothing but sleep.
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