INTRODUCTION In late December, we went in the Tiantai Mountains - Heaven's Tarasov - to relax a little from the city. That was our original objective, but the trip turned out to be more expedition in history, religion and art of China, than a trip on the green grass. We visited the place where Buddhist masters to contemplate where Taoist hermits sought immortality, where Hanshan - Cold Mountain - created his poems, also met people who are the living over a thousand-year tradition of communicators - Monks, meditating in temples and grottoes, cultivating emptiness or seeking the elixir of youth and long life.
天台山 Tiantai Mountains lie in the eastern part of Zhejiang 浙江, 450km south of Shanghai. Although not high - because the highest peak of 1100m above sea level does not exceed - they are just 100km from the sea and cliffs springed vertical walls of the deep valleys. The Tiantai Mountains, said to be the home are the source of Buddhism and Taoism - as it is precisely here have been laid the first Chinese school of Buddhism, here also arose South Variety Taoist internal alchemy school. Below
relationship with the trip, which lasted a total of 10 days.
DAY 1:
morning alarm clock rang as usual too early - the day before we went to sleep very late to prepare for departure, because well over a week, including some sort of decided to do a little bit of Christmas Eve, though because Big J has classes Christmas Eve Gala at the university decided to celebrate on January 3. Quick shower and of course we go to the last moment. Another problem with catching the taxi, because it is almost unheard of before 9:00 am - rush hour. The taxi driver asked, lest you do not hurry, it will work as soon as we drive to the south bus station in Shanghai. Such a dozen stations is here, the city is enormous, each station supports other directions and south - including the provinces Zhejiang 浙江, to which you're going. We arrive in the wrong place, of course, a taxi driver quickly throw our luggage, because it is afraid the policeman around the corner, run to the train station, just check baggage (such as x-rays on the tape at the airport, obligatory control for many years in China, once to detect illegally New Year's firecrackers being carried, and now after the Olympics tightened garments for fear of terrorist attacks), we are at the gate of No. 11 buses which leave from the Tiantai 天台, the village, next to the Famous Mountains that lie Heaven's Tiantaishan 天台山 Tarasov. Finally we get to the half - a rare thing in China - the bus, we go, after 4.5 hours with a short stopover for lunch we reach the Tiantai.
Photo: Impressive bus station in Tiantai
We were here 12 years ago, then was killed by a hole desks in the literal sense of the word, today the bus station is such that it does not powstydziloby Aug. none provincial city in Poland, can see a lot of modern buildings, cars wypasionych (in minutes passes us mercedes S600, BMW X5 and X6, and a few Range Rover). 12 years ago, barely ahead of us with motor trike moped. Times are changing and you can see it best when he returns in August after many years in the same place. Development can see the directions to the Tiantai - 12 years ago, we had to sail boat to Ningbo, then take a bus to the Tiantai, a total spent in the road about 10 hours, and now the excellent highway shortens the time for more than twice.
Photo: Przydworcowa eatery serving local food - Vegetable and Meat zawijance 煎饼 筒
check points at the station to purchase tickets for the return - is the first thing you should do in China, where millions of people are traveling by, and often very difficult to buy train tickets or bus . It turns out that there is no such problem in Tiantai, apparently it does not lie on the main tourist routes. Before
nowowczesnym bus station rather primitive soup kitchen, give the local food here, including pasta with meat dog. Dog meat - like sheep - is considered the warming, and the best on a cold day like today. Apparently the dog is the best rustic, runs out, grabs it and pounding sticks to death - after a pounding to soften the meat. Doggie ate once in my life, I casually spotkani treated to Chinese people in a small little hotel on the Yellow Gora very long ago, took to each other in the packed lunches leg of a dog wrapped in newspaper. Morning, seeing that I only have Chinese soup for breakfast, a zlitowali over me and shared what they had the best. Meat was delicious, tasted even cold, reminding the rabbit taste.
Before long distance bus station was the city bus terminal, we got the 7ke, who drove us out of the loop in the loop, the stone gate, behind which was situated in the road leading to the Temple of Pureland 国清寺 Tiantai Hotel and Hotel, in which I made reservations in advance. We got off the bus, and went probably two km road, pulling suitcases.
Photo: Road leading to the Temple of the Pure Land, and the hotel from the typical population of the pagoda of 1500 years:
road at some point between the old trees has led to huge kamforowcami, among whom became small stupa (the tombs of famous monks), again a new, probably a decorative element , but it harmonizes well with its surroundings. Large M said that probably by the kamforowce throat hurt so I - because really, I never had no problems, allergic until you have lived on the estate planted those trees. Are useful, because the mosquito repellents (as in a humid Shanghai is very important), but swell to us from their flavor throat.
Photo: Gate Hanshana and Shide, two eminent monks from the Tiantai, standing on the banks of the stream among the giant 1,000-year-old kamforowcow
after a long road we arrived at the hotel. Very nice, clean, made with a flourish, and at the same time polozny picturesque hillside next to the temple. We saw rooms of various corresponding standards, in the end we chose the latest (and cheapest), still won 10% discount + free breakfast for Lesser M (two breakfasts were included in the price). To our surprise, the beloved hotel we have free internet.
Photo: Hotel milo surprised us, moreover, like most hotels in China, we moved quickly
basic test - whether it is hot water, if its pressure is sufficient, whether the air conditioner heats - and the hunger he accepted us very bothersome. We decided to eat something quickly in the restaurant, we decided on pasta in the soup without meat for the whole Y15, after 15 minutes brought the steaming bowls of noodles perfect. I dolalem the vinegar, a little soy sauce and a large spoon acute paste, and after a while zmietlismy everything. Then the infantry went in the direction of the bus, already getting dark, when suddenly we heard the monotonous chanting of Buddhist sutras coming from behind the door next to it. Headed there when he suddenly leaned kanciapy monk and said that now you are closed. I asked whether or not the temple pilgrims after dark - maybe Buddha did not pooled in the night? The monk said he afraid of thieves. I said, if I look at a thief - he replied that the thief not a thief never looks. It was difficult not to agree with that reasoning, no longer disputed, went further, even We got the last bus to town. There he headed the first steps of course, the bookshops, where I bought a dozen items of local attractions - and above all about Buddhism and Taoism with Tiantai. Mala M got the zeszyciki, pencils, erasers, even after each lantern, and again we felt hungry. To not waste the time we've drifted to a KFC meal we ate there, disgusting, whose taste after returning to the hotel we had to change Katarzynkami, which Mom sent us in the Christmas package.
Photo: evenings, the streets of Chinese cities are teeming with life, even in the middle of winter, many Chinese people have a habit of driving by late afternoon so. Yexiao 夜宵, hence the many night cafes:
After the meal traditionally went for a walk through the streets, watching and stalls Stalls with food, charcziewnie, street popcorn manufacturer in the work, of course, were also Muslims from lamb kebabs (Rumour has it dosypuja them hashish , in order to make from each customer).
Photo: A street-Cornu Polish label pop - corn is heated to high temperatures in okrecanym cylinder, then explodes straight into the sack:
then taxi (almost) to the hotel - a walk from the gate, Mala M repeated There were four classes of Chinese, math, high M eyes were closed in August alone, but I sat down for competence, in order to write up hot impressions.
DAY 2:
successful day on average. On the trip I took special mountain boots Decathlon, in which, moreover, entered the Taibaishan 太白 山 half a year ago. Then it worked, this time failed. Twice landed on the ground, rested his hand once bumping me solidly on a sharp stone; wished then it falls to a less sensitive part of the body - and wykrakalem, but rested his elbow and cut off extra energy collapse Casting apparatus with a stone staircase. Second Fall spodowowal no major injuries, only the wallet, because the camera (who liked, he accompanied me in many places) is probably the appeal. Well, but the big M says that the most important that nothing wrong happens to me ... How does it do, and the mental trauma after the loss (rather expensive) camera? But from the beginning. Start the day we had a free because the previous night, we slept a few hours, so it was you sleep longer. I just yesterday zaczytalem in the same book about Hanshanie - Cold 寒山 Gora - a famous Zen monk, hermit and poet, who is already in the Tiantai spent 70 years meditating in a cave nna. We plan over the next day to see this place. But more about that later. Morning quick lunch around noon, not a clue who we did not like, Mala M we had to chase to eat eggs ("I hate eggs," told us later), because the output all day in the mountains with a poor prospect of food. In the end we left, the road next to the hotel, now less traveled, which leads to the mountains. The plan we had rather modest, because the day has not been much - see the burial place of the monk Zhizhe 智者 塔院, high brightness and Temples 高明 寺.
Photo: The mysterious paths in the Tiantai Mountains:
We went up the road, vehicles little, because Dolek season, and also built a more convenient connection than that which you walked (as I wrote earlier, the Chinese are a great place emphasis on development of roads, I think that for large investments of money STATE officials may tweak nice helmet for his own pocket, hence so quickly it all goes.) Way August Piela up the switchbacks, but the convenient path of stone steps allowed to go on the shortcut - admittedly quite steep, but the body in the fresh air will only get better in August dotlenial. Tiantai is beautiful, especially for such dwellers like us. Very green, lots of coniferous trees, streams. Like most Chinese Tiantai mountains combines kindness wooded, bamboo groves and bushes slopes, with steep rocky cliffs severity. The mountains are stunning, what's more, after the morning rain, the sun came out in the valley, which we walked it got wiosennie outright, and thus our moods were very good.
Photo: Stream flowing through the deep valley - going down to him, placed the first hard landing that day, but it was worth it:
at some point I noticed a path leading down to the creek, I decided to go down there, no girls, and it placed at the bottom of the first fall - shoes went on the wet grass and is only supported his hand on the blunt but pointed stone saved me. View of the stream in the valley but was worth it. Then he climbed on the road and went away. After kiludziesieciu meters suddenly stopped beside us, a new black Honda CRV, and a certain Mr. Zhu 朱 offered to take us to the gore. We took advantage of the invitation, although we did not sign a bit walking. As it turned out Mr. Zhu is the Tiantai, but doing small business (as he said modestly) in Shanghai, hence this new cart. This is probably the only car in the local market to which official prices have yet to pay extra and in addition to wait months to receive the vehicle. As Mr. Zhu said, is that he has money, is not everything, because the other party often does not want them to take. In China there is a rule that if you accept someone's favor (or money), then we are obligated to repay once 还 情. How to - it depends on what will be needed from us the other side. If you do not want to fall into a debt of gratitude, whether or not we believe that the system with the other person is worthwhile for us, it simply can not accept favors. A typical example were situations where the train passengers dalokobieznego, who had only seats left and they depended on the couchette conductor treated to cigarette counting on it to make arrangements for their berth. This often refused cigarette (Although virtually all Chinese people of the pile, and not denied, or a cigarette or a glass), because of either not had or did not want to just give it czestujacemu passenger. Mr. Zhu was helpful, however, drove us to a village near the temple dedicated to the monk Zhizhe 智者. We got near the shop, who reminded the Big M GeeSowski small shop in the village of Lipa in the Bieszczady Mountains, where once obalilismy three mineral waters, here too it was crude: soap and jam (or soy sauce, the cheapest vodka, rice in bags and Chinese, "Sports") all covered with a thick layer of dust, in the middle of three older women were playing with verve in majionga 麻将, a traditional Chinese gambling game, and the three men they dopingowalo.
Photo: Shop in the village Gaosi'ao 高 思 岙 - a gathering place for residents of chatting and gambling:
Once talked with Large M about the fact that Chinese people do not care about their aesthetics override - the scene in the shop A large M it found do not care because it is more important contact with another man, a good relationship with neighbors, spend time together. Chinese guy is not sitting closed at its four walls, but is looking for companionship. Probably too long why are mentally fit, interaction with other acts as a stimulant and the elderly often have a very volatile minds (one of my teachers is 91 years old, but no trace of senile dementia). Apart from some sort of grandmother przeganiala cat and a dog in the sun wylegiwal August. We went path along the Polish tea, Tiantai tea is known for the "mountain mists" 云雾茶 growing on mountain slopes by the majority of years swathed in thick fog.
Photo: View from the path - dry grass and green bamboo, and gave the misty mountain slopes:
Next was a scrub pine, the road forked, we chose at random that leading to the right and after a while we have come to hidden among the trees old buildings of the temple. The temple was very quiet, there was heard nothing but birds singing, we entered a small courtyard, with whom permanent outbuildings - a granary, in which they become big gallons of silage, and on the floor lay fresh ginger and a couple of velcro, the front door to round braided mat to dry hot peppers.
Photo: Przyswiatynny food store with garncami silage:
przyswiatynna Next was a canteen with rows of law and a small shrine in the middle, next to the kitchen, all rooms were very clean, though modest. Under the eaves of a wooden fish hung budynow, kind of rattles, referring to the monks for meals.
Photo: Long fish, knocker, recalling the monks to meals:
After a while we woke up the steps of Temple of Azor, who ran slander us, and behind him came an elderly housekeeper (as blacks), smile to welcome us and silencing the beast.
Photo: Temple dining room - in middle of the altar, on either side of the lava, while eating are prohibited in accordance with the Buddhist call the rule that you should focus on what's doing at the moment, in this way by filling in the spirit of meditation everyday actions:
We went further, to the root yard, where he became the central building of the temple - hiding in its interior stone to flesh Zhizhe Pagode 智者 肉身 塔. Body of people who achieve high levels of meditation and spiritual exercises, do not decompose after death. Body of eminent monks placed stupach, sometimes burning them, then it's posting ashes in an urn and zamurowujac in stupach. Apparently when Zhizhe died, his body not only has broken down, but the hair and nails grow like a living man, and his mother przyjezdzala every year to cut them.
Photo: Pagoda / stupa, reportedly hiding in the interior of the body of his master Zhizhe:
embedded in the temple walls were portraits of patriarchs of Buddhism Tiantai variety. After a while the silence was broken by sound of drills - it turned out that in the next room doing a local craftsman made of bamboo baskets in which to put steamed buns, dumplings type 包子, 馒头. Mala M bya fascinated by how he cunningly used a big knife cutting bamboo on the tape, rolling it into a kind of rim, and then binding together by thin, well-cut bamboo fibers.
Photo: Craftsman who make bamboo strainers to cook steamed dumplings:
As we said, in one day can do two of these baskets, the price is Y50 in purchasing cooperatives, and although the Bamboo of the market are being replaced by aluminum, This dish of bamboo are much tastier. After a chat with the craftsman and his two buddies, we passed on - we entered a small courtyard, and we saw the small garden. Not vegetable or other Commercial arranged, but the traditional miniature - the different plants, palm, red maple and boulders placed in the middle of all this gave the impression of miniature mountain landscape.
Photo: A small garden, in imitation of a mountain landscape:
Garden we really liked, as it turns out you do not have to have acres of land, but only a small piece of it, a little skill and of course a big sense of art, to make the window a mountain landscape. The Chinese are in the perfect imitation of nature, nature of their fascination with the beginning of civilization, they quickly realized that with her did not vanquish, and instead of the nature of the fight, tried to get know the law and adapt to them. After a moment, as if it was not enough impressions caused by a miniature landscape, we heard the monotonous sound of Buddhist sutras recited by someone official who is in the room on the first floor. How are we realized after a moment, the central building in the courtyard was a hall for meditation, the atmosphere here was very special.
Photo: meditation room, before which there is a courtyard with a garden:
Photo: Inside the meditation room, with benches, on which the monks sit. When there are walls, wooden screens, which protect them from cold and damp:
but came back to the root yard to continue the tour of the temple, when after a while it appeared to a monk in middle age. I went to him, zagailem conversation asking whether indeed the stone pagoda there are corpses Zhizhe. The monk said that it's hard to say because 文化大革命 Cultural Revolution (1966-1976, tragic period in contemporary Chinese history, when the intra-game August przebrazily the mass movement of young people, who persecuted the old monuments of China to the ruins to build their new culture), went through the Tiantai like a storm destroying everything that fell into the hands of the Red Guardian 红卫兵.
Photo: The main temple building, concealing himself in the flesh Zhizhe Pagode:
At the same time asked me if I knew who he was Zhizhe 智者 - "He who possesses wisdom." I answered, perhaps, the Zen monk. At the monk denied and he explained that he was the founder of Buddhism Zhizhe variety Tiantai - 天台 宗. For 5tego century AD Buddhism in China had a very strong characteristic of the Indian, the monastic rule, religious ideas were faithful copies of the Indian prototypes. Many good and bad translations of the classics led to chaos in Buddhism in China. Zhizhe was the first person, which reorganized the system of faith Buddhists in China, recognizing Lotus Sutra as the most important record of the Buddha's teachings. Monk - who had the name Yi'ou 一 沤 (NB buddyskich monks in China, please do not ask about the name, they all call themselves Shi 释 - from the word which means Shijiamoni 释迦牟尼 Sakyamuni - The Enlightened) - explained that he was learning Zhizhe Buddhism from the master of the South Huisi 慧思 南岳 Holy Mountains, came from Xuchang City in Henan Province 许昌. He was very advanced in Buddhist teachings and meditation, receiving science Qian Mei San 前 三昧. Zhizhe during meditation to confront all the demons, who wanted to dissuade him from achieving the Enlightenment - was unmoved and has achieved full understanding of the teachings buddyskich. One night in a dream appeared to him as a monk, who invited him to the mountains Tiantai. Zhizhe so I went there, and settled in place, which it considered suitable to the spiritual exercises.
Photo: Gazebo on Mount Folong 佛 陇 山, on which he meditated and Dingguang Zhizhe:
One day he met a monk, whom he saw in a dream - his name was Dingguang 定 光 "Light Stillness." Dingguang Zhizhe said: "You meditate at Silver Place, while I - Dingguang - practicing in the Golden Place." Both places were on the slopes of Mount Folong 佛 陇 山. Zhizhe years later, sensing the approaching end of his earthly days, wished that his body was placed on top of mountains, at a point between these two places. The current church where we were, stood in this place already. Yi'ou offered to show us the place of meditation Zhizhe - after leaving the temple showed us a yellow wall asking me what is written on it. Inscription preached - 即 是 灵山 "It's just a wonderful Gora."
Photo: Wall with the inscription "This is just wonderful Gora" - before the temple Zhizhe, "Buddha of the Eastern Lands"
Yi'ou he explained, with a wonderful Gora is a place where Buddha preached his teachings. Called himself Zhizhe "The Buddha of the Eastern Lands" 东 土 释迦 (eastern region are China and the West, India, to which Chinese pilgrims could reach only the road to the west, bypassing the Himalayas). All this is referred to the seminal role he played for the development Zhizhe Chinese Buddhism.
Photo: Zhizhe, "He who possesses wisdom"
Zhizhe 智者 - called also Zhiyi 智 顗 lived in the years 538-598, and was interested in Buddhism from an early age. Legends speak of the miracles accompanying his birth and childhood. Apparently as a sleepy infant had hands placed in a Buddhist greeting, and when I sat, she always referred to the west (toward Western Land of Amitabha Buddha's lucky), I always kneel before Buddhist statues and bowed to the passing monks. At age 15, after losing both parents, abandoned the family and goes in the south, where he was ordained to the monastic, meet many teachers, of which most influence on him has Huisi 慧思 meditation master. Apparently when Huisi Zhiyi saw for the first time, shouted: "In a previous life time obeyed the teachings of the Enlightened One Miracle Gora, where he taught about the" Diamond Sutra ", and now fate has brought us again to himself." Zhiyi on orders Huisi explaining the Buddha's teachings, and he Huisi them, listened with attention. Zhiyi In 567 years, he went to town Jinling 金陵 (now Nanjing), the capital country, where he lectured Lotus Sutra teachings 法华经. After 8 years, desiring to deepen their understanding of the teachings of the Buddha, Zhiyi decides to leave the bustling city and go with a group of students in distant mountains Tiantai to devote themselves to meditation. Here it is assumed 12 temples, which exist to this day. The effect of meditation practices Zhiyi was formulated by the specific Buddhist doctrine, linking indigenous elements of Chinese Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism, Buddhist classics theoretical study of the experience gained through meditation, based on Indian patterns. Variety called the doctrine of the Tiantai 天台 宗 And it was the first truly Chinese Buddhist sect. After 10 years of Tiantai Zhiyi leave to teach at the invitation of the emperor's first in Jinling, then Yangzhou 扬州. Two years before his death, however, is back in the Tiantai mountains, where he oversees the completion of work on the temples. When he is invited by the Emperor, leaving Tiantai, overpowered the disease dies at age 60 lat.Kwintesencja Zhiyi science is his text "He Zhiguan Mo '摩诃 止观. On one hand, the text contains arguments regarding the doctrines of Buddhism, on the other hand - is your book of meditation. Zhiguan 止观 (Meditation and Contemplation) is a key notion varieties and Tiantai combines two ideas: meditation, which leads to the state of complete silence, and contemplation in this state, which leads to the opening of true wisdom. Lotus Sutra is regarded as the quintessence Buddha's teachings. Zhiyi role for the development of Buddhism in the Far East can not be underestimated - the Chinese Buddhists, it is based entirely on original translations of Indian texts, which were often incompatible with each other; Zhiyi be analyzed and systematized, pointed out that the Buddha taught differently in different periods (Oven Periodic 五 时) for his life, and on this basis, presented the eight 八 教 teaching methods. With this systematization created a real Chinese Buddhism, with their own writings and unique approach to the teachings of the Buddha.
Photo: The main, southern gate, leading to the temple Zhizhe, traditional temples in China are facing the gate to the warm south, and from the north "based" on which protect them from cold winds mountain slope:
Yi'ou I asked why a variety of Tiantai in China is not as popular as the Pure Land and Chan (Zen). Yi'ou believed that wine is a historical storm that passed over China during the last century. However, it is very poularna Tiantai sect in Japan and Korea, the men of the followers often come here, to the cradle and source of their faith. Evidence of this was a small stupa, next to which, after a while we passed, and which was founded by Buddhists from Japan. We were walking on, until we entered the wet stone steps, which proved to be for me and my camera, unfortunately, little hospitable. We went on, he showed us Yi'ou Silver Place Zhizhe meditation. Apparently one of the local peasants put the on the house, and from that moment began to seriously ill, and all the hard earned money wasted on a doctor. One night the ghost appeared to him - Protecting Deity Dharma Buddhist 护法 神 Science and ordered to leave this holy place. Peasantry did it reluctantly, but, surprisingly soon after moving to the new site went through a disease like hand gone. Apparently peasantry now lives somewhere in town, but the ruins of his house you can still see the old place. Yi'ou told that in times of Zhizhe Buddhist monks were the elite of society, they are usually very educated people who seek further development - not only intellectual but spiritual - away from the hustle and bustle. As he stated Yi'ou, destroy the city, while the top and water nourishes man, conducive to its development. Many Confucian scholars were coming often to visit the monks, who not only possess the complete knowledge of Confucian doctrine, but also what a typical Confucian scholar did not have, and what you wished - the spiritual knowledge. Proof of this is if only the great esteem in which he held Confucius Laozi, founder of Taoist doctrines. The fact is that well-known Chinese artists and poets - including the famous Li Bai, Wang Wei 李白 王维 - they had friends among the Buddhist monks. Then Yi'ou showed us the road leading to the place in which Zhizhe proclaimed Buddhist teachings. Apologized at the same time, it can not lead us there, but had to go back to the temple for evening prayers. Invited at the same time for tea and further discussion, and offered a bed. I think that in the near future would use this call to learn more about practice variations Tiantai. Sami
we have come to the place where he is a traditional gazebo, and the huge boulder next to the word proclaimed, "Terrace on which the Grand Master of the Buddhist teachings proclaim Zhizhe" 智者 大师 说法 台.
Photo: stone with an inscription in a place where you learn Zhizhe preached, founded by a famous Haidenga, a master of martial arts from Shaolin:
there ate a packed lunch (tuna fish cans + buly) popilismy water, and seeing that the day is coming to an end, we went way back. Curiously were going in August and mountain paths of darkness, one could frighten M. After about two hours luckily we got to the hotel, but resigned in favor of a light dinner with jackdaws Hainanu of Katarzynkami. And so ended our second day in August. I admit that with great interest, but at the same time anxiously waited for the next ...
Another, the second part of the relationship can be found here:
Heavenly Terraces 天台山 - Part 2 - High Temple of Light and rocky valley
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